Log of Black Wind - Part 4

By James.

The continuing torment of James Lovett and his crew of the damned, sailing from Cabo San Lucas to La Paz in the Sea of Cortez...

Bay of The Dead

Stopping at Bahia De Los Muertos (the bay of the dead), we took a hike. I had seen an incredible building on entrance to the bay, and I was determined to find it. Tired and barefoot we wondered deeper into the interior through the night. We lost Blair, found Blair, and at some point I simply lay down and gave up. I don't remember the morning.

By now we we were getting adept at handling our heavy old girl under sail only, and we had swept in at an angle and dropped the hook in only about 5 meters. The sea was clear, the beach an endless sandy white band along the coast, and the place was deserted. Nearly. We did find a very interesting hotel resort though...

We were too dirty to be allowed to use their showers, but they did have internet. They also told us how many stars use the place (it is seriously out of the way) and that they had renamed the place the Bay of Dreams. We found it most amusing the need to make it all sound very Disneyesque (as it was already beautiful). Especially when the manager there tried to explain that the old name was due to the ‘dead’ calm sea. ​Of course it was mate.

It took a while to finally find out where to buy engine oil, and we later found out the confusion was due to Catherine and Blair's poor Spanish. They had actually been asking everywhere for another type of lubricant. Our reputation continues...

The next part of the voyage was a good example of how we sail actually. The trip from Cabo would have taken 2 nights under engine (excluding the stop at Bahia De Los Muertos), but it took us nearly 2 weeks. With no engine, very little wind, and a current that could easily push you backwards several miles at a time we had a very slow trip, but how upset can you get at laying in the sun listening to the waves and taking in the incredible desert scenery around us? I have often found myself more than happy to drift along at whatever speed nature has deemed to set us for the day, where so many people will put on the engine if running at less than 5 knots. I once read that a true sailor makes way with the wind that he has.

Once again we looked at mountains that had their peaks flattened to table tops by the tricks of the heat on the eye. Blair managed to catch a great tuna after only 20 minutes which provided lunch and tea (we previously only seemed to catch sharks), and then got himself totally covered in oil when he decided to go prodding around in the bilges. He named it his ‘straight’ day, bless him.

Third day looking at the same island

Finally we got over the top of the point and down into the channel towards La Paz. Due to the 6 knot current against us we had to anchor again (after ferry gliding out of the main channel) to await the tide and the 6 knot current. This was like sailing in the UK (but without the mind numbing cold of course)! We picked up the current again when the tide turned and sailed into a crowd of boats at anchor. At the last minute we threw the anchor overboard and Black Wind did the nautical equivalent of a handbrake turn. Then luckily stopped.

After a day at anchor trying to sort a slip where we could work, we finally got the boat into a marina berth by sail and a very focused crew. Heart stopping stuff, but it certainly earned us some interest and new friends. Catherine is a fine sailor, and between us we brought our home safely to rest. Sailing 26 tons of concrete into the middle of some lovely shiny yachts certainly brought out the best in people and it was uplifting to see how many people rushed out to help us berth. And then we were in La Paz, and very much ready for a meal on the town, a few margaritas, and a good sleep.

Catherine left us in time for her flight, and work began on Black Wind once more. We were 'forced' to join Karaka (we first met them in Cabo) for a party onboard, and thus had one ourselves the next night to return the favour. Something must have become lost in communication however and several months of this went by! A great bunch of people and I wish Thomas and Kim and all of the people we met fair sailing and wandering with all of their travels. And couch surfing - what a great idea!

Blending in?!

So here we are. Fish is free. You only have to sail for a short while and you can grab a tuna or shark which if you put it in a cold box would last a family for some time (there is nothing small out here!). Avocados, tomatoes, fruit, veg etc is so cheap it is unbelievable. I found a baker’s today where doughnuts, loaves and just about most things were the equivalent of about 20p (30c). Street food is about 40p to 70p for a hot dog or taco or tomala or some such item. I found t-shirts for 90p. Water is easy to get hold of, we never use any fuel (I don’t think many people leave such a minimal footprint on this earth as we now do), and there simply isn’t much that can’t be begged, swapped, built, or just not needed. Did I mention rum is $3 a bottle?

La Paz has a magical feel about it all of the time, and walking its streets in the day or the night is always a feast for the eye. There is a strong boat community here with radio net everyday, and organised events of every description in a shack where coffee is served in the mornings. This American expat community can feel a bit too civilised for me sometimes, but it does offer a chance to catch up.

​Out here, sometimes it's the solitude that feels good, and sometimes it’s the people. Especially the people though. From the minute you enter a port or bay, you start to meet folk and from that moment on it gets going. We have people asking us around for a music session or a meal or a party. Somebody wants to borrow something or has something you need. Somebody else knows where to get what you need and somebody else is writing a book or making a film. The people you met in the last port are now going the other way because of some random reason, and the locals you thought were eyeing you suspiciously are bringing you food and drink.

Here is life.

Black Wind in the Sea of Cortez

If I gave you a treasure map, would you really want it? 

Why would you take on those swamps and wild animals and other treasure hunters out there after your blood. And isn’t it all such a long way away?                   

If you would rather not take the map, I’ll understand. I couldn’t blame you. Few people die of hunger now on the streets in the west. You can happily live safe and content without taking risks. Why would you want to go out there anyway? 

But I know something. I know that tonight when you lay down you’ll wonder about that cross on the map. 

And the last time you ever lay down; you’ll wonder about it again.

James Lovett